Comments on the style saloniste: Bravo Balenciaga!

Maria Bello's Haute Couture Balenciaga gown wa...

2011-05-23T11:00:59.485-07:00

Maria Bello's Haute Couture Balenciaga gown was on loan to her from Elizabeth Mason's private vintage couture collection at The Paper Bag Princess, Beverly Hills.
It was cream silk and black handmade Spanish lace, circa 1950s.
Please see http://www.thepaperbagprincess.com
Elizabeth has been dressing Maria for over a decade in both vintage couture, as well as selections from Elizabeth Mason Couture.

BRAVO! Your post, this particular post is stunning...

2011-04-02T06:34:31.601-07:00

BRAVO! Your post, this particular post is stunning and so insanely gorgoeus!
The photos along with the commentary makes one feel as if they are on a brillinaly guided tour!
I can't thank you enough!
Bon weekend!
Jamie Herzlinger

Another amazing post, Diane! And Vanessa Getty in...

2011-03-31T18:25:59.787-07:00

Another amazing post, Diane!

And Vanessa Getty in Mme. Gres no less. She looks amazing.

I suggest a post about Mme. Gres very soon.

Hi Dear Swan- This is most fascinating. Balenciag...

2011-03-31T10:39:39.212-07:00

Hi Dear Swan-

This is most fascinating. Balenciaga worked with all the top of the top fabric houses to create the rather stiff (gazar, for example) and fluid (cashmere) textiles he loved. But rarely prints.
Chine-(acute accent on e) is not actually a 'print' but is ikat-inspired. The pattern, if any, is created by the warp and woof, and is not applied.
You are right--any pattern or texture is rare. He was such a purist, so devoted to line and silhouette, that nothing distracted, not even buttons. Note that jewelry is not a major player in his style! His clients had superb jewels (think Mona Bismarck) but it appears he discouraged major diamond wearing with his fashions. 'It' bags--no! Swan--loved your information.
cheers, DIANE

PRINTS: Here is the definition of what I have. CHI...

2011-03-30T19:57:24.767-07:00

PRINTS: Here is the definition of what I have. CHINE' - the pattern is dyed onto each individual thread on the Warp in the full Third dimension. If you hung each Warp thread without the Weft, you would see the pattern. So yes, this is a dyed pattern/print dyed thru the thread...like IKAT.

These are what I own, but I do know from a great source to Museum Collections, that there are Prints which are only stamped onto one side, like Fortuny did...in more abstract patterns. But as he was a Constructionist, patterns/prints were not his first choice, therefore they are RARER.

You have been a great PRISM for Information to RADIATE thru.

Hello, Super Dilettante- Always a pleasure to hea...

2011-03-30T11:37:09.718-07:00

Hello, Super Dilettante-

Always a pleasure to hear from you.
Last summer I had the great pleasure to see a special collection of privately owned (Givenchy himself) Balenciaga gowns.
Alone in the chateau rooms where they were presented (I wrote about them...check my blog archive) I was able to stand inches from the embroideries and jewel embellishments and details. Balenciaga: such authority, such beauty. Any women wearing his couture would be perfection, indeed. But...I must say, women wearing Balenciaga gowns at the de Young gala last week looked fantastic...in gowns from 50s and 60s...still looking totally current.
cheers and happy days, DIANE

Dear Diane, I love seeing Hamish Bowles in his bri...

2011-03-30T05:58:11.313-07:00

Dear Diane, I love seeing Hamish Bowles in his bright splendour. Diana Veerland once said there are no other woman exist in the room if you are wearing Balenciaga. You are the only woman in the room...something like that!

Dear Friends-- I love the response 'It is almo...

2011-03-29T20:16:36.719-07:00

Dear Friends-- I love the response 'It is almost as good as being there'. I always want to take you along with me. I want you to feel as if we went there together. An intensely felt experience.
Prints! This is so fascinating. I have now seen 4 recent Balenciaga retrospectives--at Haroue, in New York, in San Francisco, and in Paris--and at none of them did Balenciaga have any printed fabrics. Embroidered, yes, definitley, but I cannot recall any prints. There are none in the current show--all pure shapes and silhouettes and color. This is so interesting that two readers say they have seen them...so he must have done them. I feel that (as in decoration of houses) prints are a distraction and can take away from other great design concepts in couture. But it sounds like for a summer dress, perhaps,he would do a print.
I'm so thrilled at the great response here and on Facebook to this report. I hope you all get a chance to see this show--or at least to get the book.
cheers to all, DIANE

It sounds like an exciting opening. I admire Bale...

2011-03-29T17:16:51.313-07:00

It sounds like an exciting opening.

I admire Balenciaga greatly and you are right, that so often his incredible fabrics dictated the often very simple styling. I’ve examined a number of vintage Balenciagas, and there is often minimal seaming.

I also have seen a number of pieces that are done in print or patterned fabric. I’ve seen 60s style big daisies, roses, and also his carnations which I believe are the national flower of Spain. His prints are usually bold or graphic, he didn’t do granny or romantic. We do tend to recall his work in solid colour fabrics because in those designs, the proportion, balance, and superb cutting are most evident. People also remember the great evening and wedding gowns he did, but his daywear, suits and coats were also outstanding. I recently wrote an article about a fantastic circa 1965 day coat he did:

http://squarewithflair.blogspot.com/2010/11/balenciaga-masterpiece-in-toronto.html

I commend the work of Hamish Bowles; he understands the historic, cultural and aesthetic significance of fashion, rather than as ephemeral trends that are to be quickly consumed and then left to oblivion.

Terrific post. Must have been a rarefied evening.

With the world falling apart it is indeed a pleasu...

2011-03-29T07:57:04.714-07:00

With the world falling apart it is indeed a pleasure to see your post and the beauty among all the pain that is in the air these days...
Love the color he used and the draping and cutting...
It takes great knowledge to make garments of this quality.....
I love your blog Diane!!!!!

xxoo
Melissa

The fuchsia silk shantung dress is sublime! I hop...

2011-03-29T06:23:30.102-07:00

The fuchsia silk shantung dress is sublime! I hope to venture out there to see the show; I will let you know.

Cheers Diane, loved seeing your images, almost lik...

2011-03-29T01:32:01.278-07:00

Cheers Diane, loved seeing your images, almost like being there. Thank you so much xxpeggybraswelldesign.com

Bravo Jami, Drew, and Diane. Thank you for a glimp...

2011-03-28T22:13:01.373-07:00

Bravo Jami, Drew, and Diane. Thank you for a glimpse into Balenciaga at the DeYoung. Shiree'

I do recall seeing prints by Balenciaga as I own q...

2011-03-28T18:25:39.395-07:00

I do recall seeing prints by Balenciaga as I own quite a few in Silk and Wool...Carnations and Roses were QUITE his favorite, even ...I even have one that is very much like Monets' Waterlilies in Blues and Greens.

Mona Bismarck owned a few as well as Claudia de Heard Osborne, not too mention Bunny Mellon and Jayne Wrightsman...they are rather RARE.

Joy Bianchi's Balenciaga was beautiful...and very REAL, not a redux.

Dear Friends- The moment this story went out live...

2011-03-28T16:26:09.104-07:00

Dear Friends-

The moment this story went out live---the 'keyboard' lit up, as it were. I've had great comments on my Facebook post/link as well.
I'm delighted you loved this scoop...all pictures were selected just for your pleasure and have not been published anywhere yet. Drew Altizer is the genius photographer, assisted by Jami Witek.
So chic: just look at the divine Marissa Mayer (GOOGLE) and Ali Pincus (ONE KINGS LANE)--both Internet entrepreneurs and brilliant young women. And philanthropist/fashion company founder Doris Fisher. It was such a great night, and a celebration of accomplished women and men. Loved every moment. Do be sure to dash to see this show..closing July 4.
see you there!
cheers, DIANE

I should be hitchhiking there!

2011-03-28T15:31:35.067-07:00

I should be hitchhiking there!

The Show was superb...and

2011-03-28T12:33:07.742-07:00

The Show was superb...and

Diane, thank you for giving a glimpse of this show...

2011-03-28T11:15:35.724-07:00

Diane, thank you for giving a glimpse of this show- I look forward to the book. the photographs are fantastic! pgt

I might have to make a trip to San Francisco just ...

2011-03-28T11:12:57.660-07:00

I might have to make a trip to San Francisco just to see this show!

Hi Diane, a truly inspiring essai, my Rizzoli col...

2011-03-28T11:10:05.835-07:00

Hi Diane,

a truly inspiring essai, my Rizzoli collection will increase again.

Only passion creates perfection, have to honor CB for not touching prints. There is nothing as lovely a crisp embroidered silk....

Still I must admit I fancy editor Bowles pink cape and the way he wears it!

We just turned the clocks for summertime over here.

My best to you,
Ingela

Loved the post. An exciting exhibition for San Fra...

2011-03-28T10:53:18.385-07:00

Loved the post. An exciting exhibition for San Francisco!

beautiful!

2011-03-28T09:23:12.173-07:00

beautiful!

Fabulous! How nice to see the chic guests and lear...

2011-03-28T09:15:16.990-07:00

Fabulous! How nice to see the chic guests and learn about them. Wonderful post!

Thank you for this brilliant look at the exhibitio...

2011-03-28T08:58:00.465-07:00

Thank you for this brilliant look at the exhibition Diane...so wonderful to see the attendees as well as to hear about the show. I am a fan...xv